Good morning Bob,
While I’ve seen some Italian recipes specifically warn against over browning, since European flour is not routinely malted, it’s not something most European bakers need to consciously think about. When European bakers want to achieve enhanced browning in a product, they simply add diastatic malt powder.
I believe the Wegman’s unbleached flour is malted. The package should list it in the ingredients.
- Regarding almonds: I always use whole raw almonds to prevent over roasted nuts. I use unblanched nuts only because I think it’s more aesthetically suited to biscotti.
- Regarding ratios: My ratios are a lot different. Depending on how you fill your measuring cup, your biscotti contains between 56% - 66% eggs. For a traditional biscotti (no butter) egg is usually between 35% - 45%. My traditional biscotti is 36% eggs, and biscotti with butter is 41% eggs. So considerably less egg.
- Regarding leavening: I use some leavening, but never baking soda. I use baking powder within the standard of 5 grams (1 teaspoon) per 120 - 140 grams (1 cup) flour.
Baking soda is drying and produces a denser tighter crumb. I prefer an open rustic crumb for biscotti.
The standard for baking soda is 1/4 teaspoon per cup of flour. So 1 teaspoon of baking soda is enough for 4 cups of flour. Too much baking soda will impart a bitter chemical taste.
- Regarding hard biscotti: traditional biscotti is definitely hard. But homemade biscotti tends to be rock hard.
You can probably soften your biscotti some by increasing the sugar and eliminating the whole wheat. Sugar is a tenderizer. The whole wheat flour is probably countering any benefits from the extra egg. The only moisture is from the eggs. Whole wheat requires 100% hydration, which is nearly twice as much as All Purpose flour. So the use of whole wheat flour always requires a substantial increase in moisture.
You could also try ribboned eggs. Use baker’s sugar. Make sure your eggs are at least 72°. Then beat the eggs and sugar until the mixture fades to pale yellow and when the beaters are lifted out, the mixture that falls off the beaters forms a ribbon and takes a few seconds to disappear.
https://www.bakepedia.com/tipsandtricks/basic-baking-terms-until-a-ribbon-forms/
- Regarding no dunk biscotti: If you want a biscotti that can be eaten without dunking, then you need less egg and some additional fat (butter). The recipe below makes a biscotti that is nice and crunchy and can be eaten without dunking. You can use any type of citrus or omit it. I actually increase it when making dried tart cherry and pistachio or pignoli and fennel seed biscotti.
I noted the product brands I use since flour, butter, and salt differ substantially by brand. Diamond brand kosher salt is less salty than other brands. That’s the reason it’s used in commercial kitchens. If using a different brand of salt or table salt, I’d recommend you reduce the amount of salt. I only bake with cane sugar as sugar beet sugar does not caramelize properly.
I bake by metric weight, so the volume measurements are approximations. Please see the note on measuring flour by volume. How it’s measured is important if not using a food scale.
Biscotti
200g cane sugar (approx 1 cup) (C&H brand. Domino brand on the East Coast and southern states is the same as C&H)
Zest 1 large orange
3 g Diamond Brand kosher salt (3/4 teaspoon)
11g baking powder (2 teaspoons)
122g butter (1 stick + 2 teaspoons) Kerrygold or Plugra
10g vanilla extract (2 teaspoons)
145g eggs, slightly beaten (approx 3 large eggs
350g flour Central Milling Artisan Craft unmalted flour (approx 3 cups - SEE NOTE BELOW!)
1 egg white (optional egg wash)
Sanding sugar (optional topping)
Add ins I normally use:
- Montmorency tart dried cherries, roughly chopped (Trader Joe’s)
- raw unsalted pistachios, roughly chopped
Or
- Fennel seeds, very lightly toasted and bruised
- whole raw unbalanced unsalted almonds
Or
- Raw unsalted macadamia nuts, roughly chopped
- Valrhona white chocolate, chopped
OR
- Raw unsalted pignoli (pine nuts)
- Fennel seeds
NOTE ON FLOUR VOLUME MEASUREMENT: stir flour to aerate. Spoon into measuring cup until flour is above the rim. Do NOT pack it down. Level the flour even with the rim of the measuring cup with a straight edge
- First bake 350° approximately 25 - 30 min (I go by feel)
- Second bake 300° until firm with only a slight give. Again, I go by feel
Second bake, use two baking sheets to prevent overcrowding and allow adequate heat circulation. I also place cookies upright to allow heat circulation around the cookies. and to better control browning. Laying the cut side of the cookie on the hot tray just makes it brown more.
Instructions
Infuse sugar by rubbing zest into it with fingers. Let sit 10 min
Mixer with paddle attachment
Mix sugar, baking powder, and salt until well blended
Add butter and cream on medium speed approx 90 seconds
Scrape sides and bottom
Cream 90 seconds more
Scrape sides and bottom
Add vanilla extract and half the egg, beat on medium low 30 seconds
Scrape sides and bottom
Add remainder of egg beat 30 seconds more. Mixture will look curdled.
Scrape sides and bottom.
Sift flour into the mixing bowl
Mix on low until just combined. There will be traces of flour.
Add nuts, seeds, dried fruit, just mix to distribute
Form logs on parchment lined baking sheet
Brush with egg whites and sprinkle with sanding sugar if desired.
Bake 25 - 30 mins until just firm, but gives some when pressed lightly. Remove from oven.
Reduce oven temperature 300°
Cool 5 minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack
Run offset spatula under biscotti. Remove and discard parchment paper.
Cool approximately 20 minutes
Slice with serrated knife
Place sliced biscotti upright on two baking sheets. Do not crowd to allow good heat circulation.
Bake 10 mins
Rotate sheets between the racks and turn baking trays 1/2 turn.
Bake until done.
Done can be another 10 - 15 mins. Sometimes a bit longer. Feel for doneness. Cookies should be firm, with a slight give, but feel dry.
