Hello
Does ammonium carbonate – as a raising agent – cause the dough to darken less during baking than when sodium bicarbonate is used?
I have a recipe for gingerbread cookies.
I made two batches of dough with one difference. In one, I added ammonium carbonate (baker’s ammonia) as a raising agent, and in the other, I added sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).
In the first case, the biscuits were very light in colour, and in the second, they were very dark.
Regards
Yes, your observation and conclusion that doughs and batters containing sodium bicarbonate brown more is correct. We often think of chemical leavening agents primarily in terms of rise, but they play a much more complex role in baking.
During baking, sodium bicarbonate reacts with water and acids, releasing carbon dioxide and water. However, the resulting sodium carbonate is not volatile at baking temperatures (it decomposes above 1560°F/ 850 °C) so remains in the dough. This residual sodium carbonate increases the surface alkalinity,which accelerates the Maillard reaction, producing a richer crust color and deeper, roasted flavors.
Baker’s ammonia also increases alkalinity temporarily, but its decomposition products of ammonia, carbon dioxide, and water are all volatile, so escape during baking. With no residual alkaline substance left behind, it contributes very little to Maillard browning.
Baking powder contains sodium bicarbonate plus an acid. The acid neutralizes the sodium carbonate formed during the reaction, so it too has minimal effect on Maillard browning.
Each leavening agent also produces distinct textural effects:
Sodium bicarbonate produces a slightly open crumb, tender bite, some crispness, and a richer colored crust.
Baker’s ammonia produces a very dry, porous crumb with a crisp, crunchy bite, but minimal browning.
Baking powder produces a fine, soft crumb with no crispness and little browning.
To enhance browning in doughs containing leavening agents that remain neutral (such as those using baker’s ammonia or baking powder), you can:
1. Use a flour that contains diastatic malt (usually malted barley) to increase reducing sugars.
2. Add sweeteners composed of reducing sugars (glucose, fructose, maltose).
3. Use a higher-protein flour to provide more amino acids for Maillard reaction.
4. Brush the surface with milk or egg wash to supply additional amino acids and sugars.
