Hi all! I'm looking for suggestions about choux pastry, and so far I'm considering two recipes. I haven't decided on fillings or flavourings yet either
Recipe 1
Eggs, whole: 225g
water (or milk): 225g
shortening, all purpose: 85g
Salt: 3g
Bread flour: 125g
- Can I replace the shortening with butter? (Lurpak)
- Can I replace the bread flour with plain flour?
Recipe 2
butter, 50g
Plain flour, 75g
2 large eggs, beaten
- But I'm worried it has no water or milk in it, which seems unusual?
Both recipes pose issues for a good pate a choux.
Shortening has zero water in it. Butter has about 23% water. So the use of shortening in one and the absence of liquid in the other pose issues for rise and structure as water plays a major role in pate a choux. Butter is also very important for flavor given there are so few ingredients in the dough. Shortening will produce an extremely bland pastry.
The type of flour you use is important as pate choux is the only pastry dough that requires a strong gluten network.
Higher protein flour will better absorb the egg. So you can use a little bit less egg, yet still active great expansion and strength.
The interior is open and hollow, so the shell must be strong enough to support it without collapsing. Pate a choux is essentially a gluten bubble. It’s strength is created by a double cook method and a strong flour.
Water/milk and butter is boiled first; by adding the flour to the boiling hot liquid gelatinization is triggered. The gelatinization reinforces the gluten network to keep the walls from collapsing.
But even with the double cooking method, if you do not use a strong flour, the pate a choux is at risk of collapsing.
Liquid also gives the dough its rise. There is no chemical leavening, so it’s rise comes from mechanical leavening and steam created when the liquid evaporates during baking.
Standard ratios are equal parts water and eggs; half as much flour & butter
- High Protein Flour 1.0
- Liquid 2.0
- Butter 1.00
- Eggs 2.0
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I prefer a richer dough. This is adapted from Chef Eddy Van Damme. I’ve incorporated some of my techniques into his. But use his ratios and baking temperature. It’s my favorite pate a choux. The recipe calls for either bread flour or a blend of bread and pastry flour. I prefer the blend.
I learned to make pate a choux by hand. But now use the mixer as I’m convinced it better incorporates the egg into the dough. It’s also a more convenient and effective way to cool the dough before adding the egg.
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Pate a Choux
Ratios:
- Flour 1.0
- Liquid 1.77
- Butter .88
- Eggs 1.55
Yield depends on size of piping nozzle and shape. I get 18 - 3” eclairs or 24 puffs
120g milk
120g water
3/4 tsp salt
10g sugar
120g butter
67g bread flour
67g pastry flour
210g eggs loosely beaten
Egg wash
1 egg
1 Tbsp water
Equipment
- Stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment
- Parchment lined baking sheet
- Wooden skewer or sharp knife to pierce pastry to release steam
Note: I rest my dough 15 minutes after piping it. But this is optional.
Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)
INSTRUCTIONS
In a saucepan bring to a boil the water, milk, sugar, salt and butter.
Remove from heat and immediately add the sifted flour. Stir well until combined. Return to heat and stir until the dough releases from the sides and bottom.
Dough temperature should be 195°F – 203°F (90°C – 95°C)
Place the mixture into a mixer bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, on medium low speed for 1 full minute to cool the dough to 160°
Gradually add the eggs, one at a time, scraping the bowl often. After eggs are well incorporated examine the batter. It should be smooth and have a light sheen. It should be firm enough to hold it’s shape when piped.
String test: press a bit of dough between thumb and forefinger. Dough should stretch about 1” to 2” when fingers are pulled apart. Add the a teaspoon more beater egg if dough breaks apart before stretching to 1”.
NOTE: for gougere add cheese
Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Pipe spacing dough 2” apart on parchment lined sheet pans. Fill up sheet as the steam produced as the dough bakes is important for the rise.
Optional: Lightly bush with egg wash.
Optional: Rest piped dough 15 minutes before baking. The rest allows the dough to form a skin which will help retain its shape during baking.
Place in the oven at 350F (180C)
Set timer for 15 minutes.
When pastry is fully expanded, about 15 minutes, open the oven door fully for about 20 seconds to let the oven steam escape. Then close the door and continue baking.
Bake until the products are crisp when pressed on the sides. About 35 minutes TOTALY for éclairs.
I was taught to pierce the pastries with a sharp knife immediately after baking, then return to the oven for about 5 minutes. This allows for the interior steam to escape, keeping the shells crisper for longer. I still do this as a matter of habit. When making eclairs or gougere I use a wooden skewer to pierce the puff. For round shapes that I will fill, I use the tip of a paring knife to make a slit 1/3 from the top since I’m going to slice them open anyway.
they really look good! You’re right the feel of the dough tells you a lot. I remember the first time I ever made pate a choux. I was a nervous and so unsure when I felt that dough. It’s really not like any other dough in the cooking or the feel. So it’s an experience in and of itself. 
My mum was really good at making choux pastry but I've never attempted it myself, I must give it a go sometime.